Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Germany
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Nostalgia
I guess you could say that nostalgia has begun to set in.
As we were sitting in class today, discussing our itinerary for Budapest, Prague, and Warsaw, we were all reminded of some unforgettable moments: the rebellious nature of one special Hungarian songwriter, the hotel's automatic door that just wouldn't stay shut, the times where some of us got lost along the way (or as I'd like to put it, we simply took the scenic route), and of course that first group dinner where we feasted upon lots and lots of goulash and could only begin to really get to know each other.
It definitely seems as though we're in no shortage for memories after our three weeks abroad. That fact became even more apparent after I took my camera to Sam's on Sunday and discovered that I had 835 photos to print out that document every moment (and every meal) of our trip! Let me tell you, I just can't wait to sit down and put all of those in my photo album once I've sorted them all out!
Anyways, after looking through the rest of the class' blog updates over the past two days, I've realized there's really not much left to say! But...how could I ever really begin to adequately describe the trip in a couple of words anyways? It was incredible and eye-opening, and it's something we will all remember for the rest of our lives, but the places we saw and the stories we heard are things you can't really understand until you experience them on a personal level. I can't even say that I fully understand them yet! As for all of us, it's a constant learning experience, both in the classroom and beyond, that has let us at least skim the surface in a search for a better understanding of four very unique and unbelievable European countries.
Thus, it's impossible for me to pick a favorite city or a favorite country after experiencing each individually over the past three weeks. I loved Budapest because it seemed the least Westernized, and I felt as though I was able to make the city my own after strolling through parks and finding my own places to sit and observe that were off the beaten path. Another river city, Prague too was beautiful and unique, and it never lacked for good shopping and an assortment of tourist sites. From there, Warsaw and Gdansk gave us a once-in-a-lifetime glimpse into Polish life where we played witness to two cities that were once leveled by bombs and have since recovered and become even more amazing with age. Finally, we visited Berlin, and we couldn't have had better timing, for we got to watch Germany play in the semi-finals for FIFA 2010 from the comfort of an Irish pub near our own Ramada Berlin-Mitte hotel.
Whether riding bikes through the city, taking paddleboats onto the river, swimming in the Baltic, or simply going off on our own to experience everyday life in these five European cities, the trip offered a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for all of us. We don't know when we'll be back, or even if we'll be back, but I know that we made every minute count while we were overseas, and that looking back- there are definitely, definitely no regrets.
Thanks to all our readers for keeping your interest-
Alex Cherry
In hindsight...
Which, for me, is proving to be more of a challenge than I initially fathomed it would be. Prior to our departure to Central Eastern Europe, we devoted three weeks in the classroom to prepare us for our studies abroad. In hindsight, not only was three weeks in the classroom too short, it is near impossible to prepare someone for the experiences we encountered.
Our objective was to analyze the structure of communism and the role of the media in its ultimate fall. In many ways, our experiences abroad contradicted our prior studies. In the classroom the scope was very narrow and in some respects one sided. As we studied communism, an oppressive, meek, black and white picture was painted
Unaware at the time, I left the United States overwhelmed, naive and jaded. Not far into our travels, did I discover, the little knowledge I had of communism was solely based off of an American perspective. As our travels commenced, the picture that was presented was no longer black and white. Various shades of grey presented themselves leaving myself and other students even more puzzled.
Most importantly, communism is a word very seldom used in Central Eastern Europe. Communism was never achieved nor experienced in these societies. It was the ultimate goal for the ruling Soviet Regime – a societal utopia that they were hoping to reach. But, were never able to, socialism was the only practice that was accomplished in Eastern Europe. I mention this because; in our first meeting with a Professor in Budapest we were corrected. Eastern Europeans do not refer to what they’ve experienced as communism, it was socialism. And, I as re-visit my experiences over the past three weeks that first meeting still stands out to me. It set the tone for the rest of the trip and we would be corrected many times following that initial meeting.
Whether or not, socialism was good or bad is most definitely subjective. At the mention of socialism, nostalgia still sets in for some. I was taken back by the number of individuals we encountered that, longed for the “good ‘ole days.” For quite a few people socialism marked a time in their lives when they had security. Never, did they wake up and have to wonder if they would still have a job. Now, with a fairly new democratic society these same people find themselves struggling to adjust. Homelessness is new to them, as well as the competition that comes with a democracy. On the other hand, there are a number of people who do believe a democratic society is better and will lead to a more prosperous future – it is just a matter of time and adjusting.
Adversely, there were still remnants of how harsh life was during the rule of the Soviet party in many of these countries. Visits to places like the Terror House in Hungary, ship yards in Poland and the Jewish memorial and the Berlin wall in Germany brought about a bleak feeling. It was a constant reminder of how far these countries have come in the past 20 years. This brings about another point.
Aside from the knowledge I gained, on what socialism was truly like for those that lived through it were the spirits of the people. I was awestruck by the strength of the people in the four countries that we visited. Their spirits were strong, as well as their devotion to their culture and their zest for life was contagious. I was enveloped completely by the people’s warmth. For me, my personal encounters with strangers in Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland and Germany were the most enlightening.
All in all, my experiences in Europe have far exceeded what anyone can gain sitting in a classroom. I am most grateful for the people I met while abroad. I am now faced with the task of trying to further make sense of all I’ve gained during the past six weeks. This trip marks only the beginning for me, it has also reiterated why I am pursuing a career as a journalist – to develop a deeper personal understanding of how cultures, industries, economies, companies; government agencies and key decision-making individuals function. In traveling to these various countries I believe it pits your will and wits against those who possess information and who would wish to suppress it. And, I have learned how to overcome that. Lastly this trip has influenced my life by permitting me to experience the level of access to interesting people and events, as outlined above.
Danke schön to all that have accompanied us during our travels! And thank you to all of the Professors and students for such a phenomenal experience!!
...Until we meet again Europe
Kyara Massenburg
Monday, July 12, 2010
Just a few thoughts...
My mind and body are struggling to recuperate from the past three weeks. Attempting to reflect and accurately present my thoughts, which have yet to take form, is proving to be quite challenging. However, I will try:
Our mission was to examine the complexity of communism during the Soviet regime and to study the media’s role in its ultimate collapse. Our findings proved that our scope was quite narrow.
Upon our arrival, we were welcomed with a grim glimpse of what may have been before the year 1989. Various shades of grey cascaded the scenery. It was cold and damp. As we progressed toward the center city of Budapest, large unadorned and austere buildings came into view. They were tall and rectangular with uniformed square windows. I wondered if they were the communal quarters where people were assigned to live.
As we traversed through the bleak landscape, I thought to myself, how appropriate of an introduction into our journey it was. I felt it illustrated the depraved state in which encompassed the lives of millions. I, myself, knew nothing of this profound period in history.
I was born during its final years. My life, as I know it, was untouched from the harsh, adulterating era of the communist regime. Separated by time and distance, I was unscathed. The rest of the students were born between 1989 and 1991. I thought this trip, especially for the undergraduates, was symbolic. The same years that marked the beginning of their lives also signified, essentially, a rebirth for those who were held captive behind the Iron Curtain.
The trip was too short, yet at the same time, too long. It was an intensive and enlightening experience. We were given the opportunity to speak with individuals whose perspectives far surpassed what ours could ever be. Between meetings with a dissident Hungarian musician, political scientists, a former Communist Party member, journalists reporting from the East, and educational tours to radio stations and museums, we had multiple platforms to receive information. In addition, the collaboration of the faculty and the accompanying guests provided us with a plethora of resources to build on our inchoate understanding.
The first three weeks were a crash course into the principles and ideologies behind communism. Having this background knowledge as the foundation for our learning, everything that followed advanced our understanding. Being in the setting where fifty years of oppression occurred helped what I’ve heard and read through texts and lectures materialize into the reality of what was. The chilling and ominous audio and visual displays in the Terror House evoked a sickening feeling, which ran through me. The ’56 Institute and its images enabled me to recognize the calculating nature of the 1956 Hungarian Revolution. The stories that were shared by individuals whom we were scheduled to meet as well as from those whom we just met in passing expanded my knowledge.
I realized that we must be careful to not become desensitized of the realities of the past. There is a great significance in seeing the places where people were tortured and killed. We must be careful to not forget the casualties and not lose sight of how people, whether they are disillusioned or psychotic, are capable of doing the most horrific of things.
The past three weeks broadened my perspective immensely. I realized that each Soviet bloc country had its own unique story. Depending upon the culture of each country as well as the leadership in the Kremlin and the party head in each country, there were various degrees of oppression throughout each country. For instance, Czechoslovakia liked the socialist system. They just wanted to reform it into “communism with a human face.” The Prague Spring of 1968 was a peaceful demonstration. Likewise, the Solidarity movement in Gdansk was a peaceful resistance with improved workers’ rights as its platform.
The pervasive nature of the corrupt system penetrated all aspects of people’s lives. However, some societies were more tolerant and optimistic of the system than others. For many, it gave them a sense of security. Yet, some wanted to preserve their culture.
The impact of the radio and other media outlets was not as instrumental as we initially hypothesized. Prior to our departure, we had the notion that Radio Free Europe was a beacon for disseminating the truth to the Eastern bloc. However, the conversations that we had with many individuals illuminated the fact that RFE was not considered very credible.
Throughout our journey, we realized that other factors, both internal and external, were profoundly influential in the demise of the system. The leadership, or lack thereof, presented a stronger case for the collapse. A disregard for economics was a key factor. In addition, the system was weak. Its use of force was its only prevailing strength to keep the masses under control. Dissident behavior, whether in the form of an uprising or in a peaceful demonstration, was met with suppression. Relinquishing the reins in the slightest manner could result in a domino effect, which the Party could not risk.
The amount of information, which I gathered over the past six weeks, is overwhelming. The challenge that I face, now, is to decompress and organize my thoughts and notes into a comprehensive paper. But, beyond my thesis paper, what I am appreciative of is the experience. The knowledge and perspective that I now hold will remain with me. I look forward to enlightening others who are unaware. This course and trip exemplifies why I want to be a journalist: to surpass my own literal and figurative borders by immersing in the cultures and lives of others with the purpose to expand my knowledge as well as others’.
- Ashley E. Hotham
Auf Wiedersehen
This trip has been one of the most eye-opening experiences of my life and I’m so glad I could experience it with such great people. I think all of us have learned more than we ever thought we would on this trip and we’re definitely all experts on communism/socialism now.
Our last stop was in Berlin, Germany. It was definitely one of the places everyone was looking forward to visiting from the beginning. From the bike tour across Berlin on my bike Tinkerbell, to decking out in German colors for the World Cup, to getting lost somewhere at a U2 train stop, Berlin ceased to impress me with its beauty and the German people only seemed to become more alive with each passing day. It was almost impossible to believe that such a wonderful place could have such terrible history. It is so amazing that a nation can come back from such repression and become such a sparkling place to visit. It takes a lot of courage to come back from such a chilling past. One of the reasons I think Berlin has done so well is because it is the only place we went to that still seems in tune with its past. Berlin has kept so much to remind the people of what is most important. Although Germans are sometimes embarrassed of their past, they still keep pieces of the Berlin wall up for historical purposes and to remind them how much they do not want to regress back to that low point. In the Reichstag, the government officials keep Russian writings on the wall to remind them how devastating war can be on a nation. Germany was the first nation we have been to where everyone admitted that children learn about the socialist rule in schools. I think it is really important that the younger generation learns about the nation’s history with no loopholes. I think the journalist at our last meeting in Berlin and on the trip says it all and explains why the Germans have done so well. He said that the past isn’t what is important right now, what is important is to look the future and look toward the horizon. His optimism was so powerful and his quote was a great way to end our journey in Europe. It is amazing how the German people—even those who lived through the socialist rule can forgive and forget, and have so much optimism toward the future.
For those who followed us on the blog throughout our journey, thanks for reading!
Auf Wiedersehen,
Sandy!
(P.S.- I want to go back already!!)
A New Perspective
First off, communism was never experienced in central/eastern Europe. Communism was the idea or the ultimate goal for those in power but socialism was the actual practice in society. We were corrected many times during our meetings and discussions that communism never existed. . . it's socialism that we're speaking of. We also learned that socialism wasn't necessarily all bad. Many people described how secure they felt under the socialist power. They had a job at all times and goods were much cheaper. Throughout our travels, it became apparent that a person's satisfaction with socialism as the form of government depended on where it was they were living and how oppressive that particular government was.
Some of the people that we would meet with would say that the new democratic society in place today isn't necessarily better than the old socialist government. The "good ole' days" became a recurring word in our vocabulary. In my opinion, it is going to take a little longer for people to adjust to the new democratic forms of society that have been set up in these countries. Many people aren't comfortable with the new competition that comes with a democracy. All of a sudden, you must work hard for your job and pay more for food and other goods. However, it doesn't take 10 to 15 years to get a car and you are able to travel freely. Like most things in life, you must consider the idea of give and take.
I learned so much during the past three weeks but I think the most important idea I was able to take from this experience came in the very last meeting when we were in Berlin. I asked our 3 guests the following question: Is the new democratic society seen today better than the socialist society you experienced over 20 years ago? Do you miss the "good ole' days?"
One of the men responded with something that struck us all. He said that he can't change the past. He must only look to the future and hope that he can make an impact. I think that is a great lesson for us all to learn. We shouldn't dwell on the past. Although we can learn from history in order to make our own future brighter, we must not let what happened before us weigh us down. We must only look toward the future and work towards making an impact through simply living life.
I experienced an incredible adventure over the past 3 weeks. I made new friends, gained new knowledge and created memories that will last a lifetime.
Thank you to all who accompanied me and gave me sunscreen . . . haha. I can honestly say that I love you all and I couldn't have asked for better travel buddies.
Auf Wiedersehen, Na Shledanou, Dowidzenia, Sziasztok, Ciao . . .
With love,
Caitlin
Back to Columbia
Looking Back
The evaluation of my experiences in the past three weeks will be a process that continues for quite some time. This is understandable because every time I tried to truly absorb observations about my surroundings I would only encounter a greater flow of new information. There is a distinct list of things that are emerging within my thoughts though. First off I have realized that capitalism itself is not inherently the best form of economic policy. Depending on how much a population expects its government to provide, any degree of socialization may be taken to meet those demands. Straight capitalism is simply a formula that has worked very successfully for the United States and other wealthy nations, but it is not a generally suitable and acceptable method. What does remain important is the maintaining of a democratic form of rule. This goes all the way back to John Locke's writings about a government's only true purpose being to serve the people of its society. If it does not meet those needs then it should be in full capability of the citizenry to change how their interests are represented. Over the course of the trip we visited places where this was not legal under the rule of communism, yet attempts to do so were still made. Everything from the Hungarian Revolution in '56 to the Prague Spring to the Solidarity movement and the Fall of the Berlin wall reflected resentment toward socialist leadership.
Finally, in a journalistic light, I see that media did not play as grand of a role in the end of communism as perhaps America had hoped, but there is certainly a value to supplying people with free information they would not be able to get from their own society. Having the ability to make your own decision between what information is relevant to your interests is instrumental in preserving democratic stability. If people are incapable of receiving information from alternate voices and perspectives than their own (or the one they are accustomed to) their understanding of societal needs becomes stagnant and therefore unuseful in the betterment of society. The more limited information exposure is, the more limited one's reasoning becomes.
Altogether, this has been one of the best decisions I have made in college and am extremely lucky to have shared it with such bright and engaging people. The things I gained could not have been achieved in the classroom, even with the best textbooks and professors imaginable. A significant part of the learning came from teaching myself what was significant about communism from interacting with those who lived under its reign. Being in the environment taught me things about the communist experience that cannot be easily put into words and printed. There is a significant depth and understanding that can only be achieved by submerging one's thoughts into a context only attainable through travel and experience.
- William Flourance
The memories will come, but Jetlag likes to hang around too
Goodbye Berlin
After a long and incredible trip across Europe we wrap up our final days in Berlin. We scheduled some fascinating meetings with people directly affected by the Berlin Wall and the GDR. These meetings enlightened both the students and faculty to the oppressive nature under the socialist rule. The division of families and lack of free speech are only a few of the many examples given to the group. The trip has brought us on an adventure to important historical sites all over the city including the Brandenburg Gate, Hitlers Bunker and The Jewish Holocaust Memorial. It has been a trip like no other that has inspired me to continue researching the past so that my generation can provide a brighter future.
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Berlin Video!
Before we leave, however, I wanted to be sure to post a video that highlights some of our numerous experiences in Germany. Be sure to turn your volume up, and I hope you'll enjoy the sights as much as we did.
Always,
Alex
The Prism of Time
But for many young Berliners with whom we have met, the wall is a memory from before their time. It is more than 20 years since the night in 1989 when the wall was breached and, as communism crumbled, the dismantling began. In Berlin, there are those who would remove every trace of what the wall meant during the 28 years it stood. There are others who would build it back.
What was East Berlin is a different place from what I first saw about 1970 and even from what I last saw just five years ago. The challenge our post-cold war students have is to grasp why this is a significant piece of history and what it must have been like to live on either side of the Berlin Wall. Perhaps today, standing in the middle of one of the few preserved sections of what had been the "death strip," that became a bit more real.
When I used to cross Checkpoint Charlie between the American and Soviet sectors of Berlin, it was serious business. The Vopos--East Germany's volkspolizei guards--were purposefully intimidating, even though I had the security of an American passport. Checkpoint Charlie today is an anachronistic commercial circus. An ersatz Vopo will stamp your passport, your arm or forehead--for two Euros. A sloppy impersonator of a U.S. soldier will pose for a photo with you by the old guard shack--two Euros, please. That's hardly the mental snapshot I have of Checkpoint Charlie.
As we have travelled through Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland and Germany, we have gathered a collection of snapshots. Our students have shared some of their digital files. Mine tend to be on a mental file. It's good to have both kinds.
Five years from now, if our students come back--and I hope they will--these places will have changed again. But if you hold the prism just right, it reflects back on time and captures the changes.
CB -- July 8
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
FIFA 2010
It is a sad night in Berlin, but we had tons of fun watching the game tonight in a pub down the street from the hotel. Be sure to watch the game on Saturday to see if Germany can clinch the 3rd place title!
-Alex
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Some fun on the beach in Gdansk on the 4th of July
Zach
Guten tag from Berlin!
First of all, we stopped at Bebelplatz, the sight of the Nazi book burning in the 1930s. Books written by Einstein were among the thousands burned in the center of this square, and an underground memorial of empty bookshelves now commemorates the tragic event. This week, however, the platz has turned into the center of fashion as the Berlin Fashion Week 2010 has set up a huge white tent covering the entire square furnished for famous designers and models. Luckily, the memorial was still accessible by the public (and it was awesome to get to see all the VIPs everywhere setting up for the event!)
From there our group headed toward Checkpoint Charlie, the Holocaust Memorial, and the Brandenburg Gate. Unbelievable sights, each had its own history and intensity. Checkpoint Charlie, one of three main checkpoints between the West and East during the Cold War, has turned into a giant tourist trap- fun but expensive! There, you can get a stamp on your passport for two Euro, or approximately $2.20. Also, you can take photographs with American guards at the checkpoint who are no longer stoic and resilient, but fun-loving and loud tourist-attractors calling out at the audience to join them in front of the small triangular-roofed white building for professional photographs.
The Holocaust Memorial, however, proved a stark contrast to the touristy-Checkpoint Charlie. A huge block of land near the American Embassy, the memorial is a cobblestone surface with thousands of huge grey concrete slabs painted in anti-graffiti paint that tower over you dauntingly. The memorial, with no explicit definition, is left up to individual interpretation, whether that leads to ideas of a graveyard for the Jewish masses, an empty city where you're constantly looking over your shoulder to see who's close by, or a physical manifestation of the jailed-in feeling created as thousands of Jews were forced like cattle into concentration camps, many of them to their death, the site is incredible as it reminds you of Nazi-ruled Germany and the genocide that Hitler's Third Reich created.
And lastly (on a slightly brighter note), the Brandenburg Gate is an awe-inspiring sight, a once-division between East and West Berlin that used to lie in the middle of the death zone inbetween the dividing walls. Today, we rode bikes under the gate, a feat that would have been impossible 20 years ago. Atop the gate sits a satue of a chariot with four horses led by a woman (now called Victoria after the victorious defeat of Napoleon) that humoursly looks patronizingly down upon the very military-looking, dare I say ugly, building that houses the French embassy. Whoever said the Germans don't have a sense of humor was sadly mistaken.
In general, it's truly hard to imagine Berlin pre-1989. But, after seeing the sights and memorials all around the city, I can tell you it's quite an emotional place filled with hope for the future. As we continue learning about the final events in the Cold War and those that led to the ultimate demise of Communism, we'll be sure to keep you posted here on our blog!
Alex
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Fourth of July Celebration!
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Arrival in Gdansk
-Alex
Friday, July 2, 2010
Gdansk here we come
It's about 11:35 here in Warsaw and I'm repacking my suitcase in preparation for our departure to Gdansk tomorrow morning. Its hard to believe that we only have two cities left on our schedule to visit before returning to the United States. However, in preparing for this trip I initially found myself most excited for our visit to Gdansk so I can't wait to arrive tomorrow!
The Solidarity movement was first created in the shipyards of this port city on the coast of the Baltic Sea. We have been learning about the movement, both prior to arriving in Europe and while here in Warsaw, and one of the most prominent ideas we have found revolves around the lack of violence in the revolution. It was unique in comparison to the Hungarian Revolution of 1956 and the Prague Spring of 1968 because there was this absence of bloodshed and Red Army tanks.
We were asked, during our meeting at the Insititute of National Rememberance, why we were so interested in learning about Solidarity and communism in Eastern/Central Europe. Personally, it caught me off guard . . . I've been thinking about the question for a few days now and I've come up with an answer that proves why I am so interested in Solidarity and the city of Gdansk.
In America I was born with priviledges, freedoms and opportunities. Personally, it is hard to picture myself in a society of suppression under a communist regime. I want to learn about Solidarity and communism because it helps me to truly appreciate the life that I was blessed with. It is enlightening to learn about the lengths that so many were willing to go to in order to fight for those freedoms their society lacked. I have also always been a believer that learning about the history of societies before us gives us the knowledge to make ours better in the future.
Well it's getting late and we have an early morning ahead of us. Until next time . . .
Caitlin
Chopin's Warsaw
-Alex
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Midway Point
Today we are experiencing Polish culture in the great city of Warsaw. We were a little concerned with a difficult trip into the city, but I have been pleasantly surprised with my overall experience. We have been to some incredible cities in Europe and seen some eye opening monuments, but today I would like to reflect on some things Zach and I love about Europe and miss from back home.
The first thing we all seem to love about Europe is the Architecture. Budapest amazed me the most with the Hungarian Parliament. What a sight to see from the river at night! Fashion and the sleek dress from all ages in Poland. They impress all of us with their cutting edge styles. Cafe's have an incredible atmosphere that are great for enjoying time with friends or a coffee and a great book. The Public Transportation systems are to die for. You can get anywhere in any major city for real cheap and very quickly. The traffic signs are unique and the street lights fit the architecture. While in the hotel room we love being able to turn on the radio through the tv and experiencing the different types of music. Then waking up in the morning and having a great buffet everyday. Eggs, bacon, you name it they have it.
After briefly discussing the things I love about Europe I think it is important to tell you about the things we take for granted in the United States. First and for most, air conditioning! I will never take the cold classrooms of USC for granted again. The train ride to Warsaw was "supposed" to be air conditioned but it felt more like a sauna. The next thing I have completely taken for granted is the laundry service and ability to clean my clothes for real cheap. Here in Warsaw it is 10 dollars a shirt to wash your clothes! When Zach and I went to the grocery store we bought one bottle of lemonade and the plastic bag they gave us ripped two minutes out of the store. It looked like saran wrap. When you go for a meal here there are ZERO refills! It has been difficult getting used to paying for every sprite I order. Then we get to the train situation. Very few people in Europe have caught on to wearing deodorant! Yuck, Gamecock nation consider yourself lucky. Then try finding a clock in hotel rooms in Europe; there are none! Last but not least I miss easy English conversation. The language barrier has created a few problems but kept us on our toes!
Have a great one Gamecock Nation! Celebrate our baseball title!
Dave
Scenes of Warszawa
A 20-minute walk from our hotel, however, and you get a very different idea of the city of Warsaw.
Penniless in Poland
Yesterday was quite the adventure, as Zach explained the details of the atrocious train ride from Prague to Warsaw, but to top it all off, I have no Polish zloty (the currency) with which to do anything! I stopped by an atm on the way to dinner and realized I had no idea what the pin number was for my card! However, I shouldn't need cash for more than food today, and if worst comes to worst, I can always eat downstairs in the very modern Novotel dining room and charge the room. Penniless in Poland- what a great first day in! :)
And despite yesterday's awful 8-hour train ride, last night was spectacular. Several of us walked about 20 minutes down to Old Town and were pleasantly surprised by the full-of-Polish-culture atmosphere. We dined outside amid the fading colors of sunset and had plenty of entertainment to go around- whether it was the fire twirlers, traditional folk dancers, or the man who played Seal's "Kiss by a Rose" on repeat. Perhaps the most exciting find- Chopin's Musical Benches. In order to commemorate the 200th anniversary of Chopin's birth, Poland has named 2010 "The Year of Chopin" and has commissioned benches all over Warsaw that tell a little history and even play some of Chopin's music upon pressing "Play." They can be found at historical sites across the city, such as those landmarks we found last night- the Chopin family house and the church that today is home to his heart (quite literally).
Once again, congratulations to the Gamecocks on the national title!
You'll be hearing again from us very shortly. :)
Alex
Prague to Warsaw
Sandy and I rented out a paddle boat to get a better look at the city from the river and it was one thing that will stick out in my mind forever about this trip. The city looks so peaceful from the water and the people on the water look so happy. From this prospective, you would never guess that Prague was ran by Communists only decades ago.
One thing that really sticks out to me about Prague too was an almost disturbing memorial for Prague Spring that I saw. The sculptures in the piece look like zombies coming down a staircase on the side of a hill. Some of them don't have heads, are missing limbs, or have mornful faces that cry out to you on the street. At night the staircase is lit up and the sculptures are made in such a unique fashion that at first glance they look so realistic that it is scary. This is one of a few odd sculptures I saw.
Prague captivated us all in some kind of way. It made it very hard to leave. We all wish we would have had more time there because there is so much to do and see, it is impossible to have done it all in just a few short days. After having been to Radio Free Europe/ Radio Liberty and seeing all the things Prague has to offer too, all of us considered mastering Czech and working at RFE/RL just so we could stay in this wonderful place.
However, all good things do come to an end and we borded the train for Warsaw. The train was not a fun experience. Imagine a very hot summer day, riding for 8 hours with no air conditioning, trying to sleep in a crampt space to escape extreme boredum and the heat, and you have just put yourself in our shoes. Then when we finally got off the train, caught the breeze that cooled us down for a split second, and got to strech our legs a little, we discovered that we were walking for ten minutes to the hotel with out luggage. Please understand that the handle on my luggage decided to jam itself right before this happened so I walked in the heat, dragging my luggage behind me, and hitting the backs of my knees to the point of severe bruises the entire way. Let's just say this wasn't the highlight of anyone's day.
The guide who led us to the hotel was pretty funny though, and very helpful. When he brought us to the first set of stairs that we were going to have to climb with our luggage to get to the hotel he said "Oh, I am sorry about the stairs. The Communists must have built those." He helped all the females with luggage at every set of stairs we reached. If he wouldn't have done that, it very well could have taken us a good bit longer to reach the hotel.
After we showered we ventured into the city like a pack of starving wolves to find the food we had been deprived of for hours. We were all angry and vicious at this point. My group found a KFC and were happy. Although KFC here is not the same as it is at home. No mashed potatoes, mac-n-cheese, baked beans or Bar-B-Q chicken are found here. The only sides are coldslaw and fries. The portions are so small with the food that Sandy and I actually had to get two meals and ice cream to be full. I don't know how any boy would have ever eaten until they were full there. Things are just way different.
However, the fashion is pretty intense and we can not wait to do some damage at the mall!
Morgan Weaver
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Behind the Veil of Western Glory
My visit to CEELI, an international institute that studies rule of law encouraged me even more to consider what the role western style governments and if they were truly appropriate for people who have not developed egalitarian framework in society and do not revere personal freedoms the way that our multi-party democracy does. Our guide was able to explain that the institute holds conferences on rule of law specializing in everything from intellectual property to human trafficking which judges from many developing nations attend. The prospectus of the institute (from what I gathered) was to encourage the reign of justice and to resist legal corruption withing the standards of law in these developing countries. Though this sounds to be a reasonably inoffensive way of achieving proper rule of law, I find that this could easily be a polite way of saying that they wish to demolish the aspects of developing systems that the west would find to be unjust, thus editing legal systems to fit western interests. Dr. Puchala affirmed more of my thinking when he asked what would happen if their mission was ineffective and our guide was only able to give a highly optimistic ideological answer that asserted that there were common legal principles that did away with societal oppression and fought against disparity, and those principles could be accepted by any system with enough tweaking. I drew from this a parallel to communism, as Marxist theory suggested that certain principles could be applicable for all sorts of people and that there was a general yet supreme method of government that most any thoughtful person would accept in light of its theoretical benefits. That too was quite ideological because communism confronted ideological barriers in the west similar to the barriers that rule of law is facing in the developing world. There will always be some degree of people who reject our methods of achieving justice and differentiation in opinion as to what justice is.
More to come today, I made a friend last night who's working for imagine comp put on by microsoft.
- Will F.
Starbursts for lunch, or maybe a Snickers?
I hope everyone is celebrating safely back home in Columbia and all over Gamecock Nation. Hearing about our epic win over UCLA was a great way to wake up, even if it was a bit early for us at 8am Prague time. Hope everyone enjoys the short video I posted.
I just wanted to tell everyone that we have finally made it to Warsaw, city of sausages. It actually doesn't smell too bad of kielbasa and is seeming to be quite a hidden gem on our trip. But since I'm sitting here in my ice cold hotel room overlooking the old Soviet Culture Center, I wanted to memorialize our train ride from Prague to Warsaw for everyone.
It was awful.
But to elaborate some, it was extremely laboring on our bodies, our mental stability, and all five senses. The first pro we found when we got on the train was that our seats in our compartment all pulled out to create a giant cot that six people could lay flat in and get some decent sleep. Brilliant idea, right? Yes, but only if you have decent air flow.
About an hour into our 8 hour ride the AC on the entire train broke, decided to sleep, or just stayed in Prague without us knowing. So here we are, 6 very sleepy college kids, and all of the sudden we wake up slowly and there is no air movement whatsoever in our car. Stifling, smothering heat. It was so bad, we just couldn't get any more sleep. So instead of a decent 5 to 6 hour rest, we all ended up with about a 2 to 3 hour bout of nap time. And I'm sure as most know, college kids need their midday nap or else nothing productive can get done.
And to top it all off we didn't have a dining car. On an 8 hour ride. Really? The only thing they were selling were Snickers and other candies, along with cold drinks. Wow. Needless to say we were quite tired and hungry once we arrived in Warsaw.
But its all now in the past, we are all full of delicious Polish food, and I think we are all calling it an early night. Sort of. Can't wait to get back and celebrate with everyone again for our great Gamecock victory.
Carolina love,
Zach
Just a little video to show our celebration
Carolina love,
Zach
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Paddle Boat!
-Sandy! =)
Selective Memories
-Sandy
Expectations, realities and adjustments
What the students are discerning is that the textbooks, historical treatises and classroom lectures can only take them so far. While those are far from black and white presentations, the shades of gray are even more nuanced when you start to see them first hand. Yes, the cold war tensions between the Soviet and western blocs is often laid out in good guy/bad guy contrasts.
What the students report they are encountering is that people who lived behind the so-called Iron Curtain for the most part made their adjustments and figured out survival techniques. While they have acquired post-communist freedoms, they have also had to figure out survival techniques in free market economies that no longer guarantee them a job and a pension, regardless of how modest. In good times, market economies will exceed those minimums. In hard economic times, such as we are now experiencing, the guarantees are often not there.
You rarely saw homeless on the streets of communist capitals. Occasional beggars were swept away by police. You encounter both now. The view is not sanitized. The problem is not solved.
Is it possible the bad old days could be the good old days? That's where our western lens colors the notion that anyone might want to go back to communism. At least, not the oppressive version we've seen remembered in Budapest's "Terror House" or the memorial to victims of communism down the street from our hotel in Prague.
Since European communism collapsed in 1989--it still exists in Chinese, Vietnamese or Cuban forms--a whole generation of Czechs, Slovaks, Hungarians and more have grown up never having lived in a communist country. They are about the same age as our University of South Carolina students. That generation--European and American--will have to make its own assessment of the post-cold war world.
CB 6/29
Monday, June 28, 2010
Scenes of Prague
It's our last day in Prague, but it feels like there's so much left to discover about the city! After a group meeting with a Czech representative of the Associated Press, the day is ours to explore. Many of us will head back to the Charles Bridge and Wenceslas Square (as seen in the above video!) before joining back up with the rest of the group for dinner. Tomorrow we depart by train for Warsaw!
-Alex
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Praha at its finest!
No Blisters Yet - From Budapest to Prague
Prague seems to be an entirely different place than Budapest. I would have to say I feel more at home here because I feel that it is more westernized, or closer to the cultures of other countries I've visited like the UK and France, therefore resting in my comfort zone. The language barrier here has not been so difficult as there seems to be a general enthusiasm for western commercialism, that brings English along with it. Everything from Ford Automobiles all the way to way to Remax, Czech people seem to have brought in more American business than I saw in Budapest (that had a lot of Hungarian businesses). I still have a lot to learn and explore here, I think that our visit to RFE/RL will be one of the best yet! Much more sausage and Czech beverages on the way!
- Will Flourance
Which way to the nearest Tesco?
I hope everyone in the states is enjoying a good Gamecock victory against Clemson in the College World Series and ready to cheer us on against UCLA in the finals.
We made it to Prague yesterday afternoon, and we were met with bright sunshine and a wonderful breeze. The drive around to the hotel showed us really cool parts of the city including the Old City, the Small City near Castle Prague, and the old National Gym Stadium. It can hold 250,000 spectators! Just try to imagine that at a Carolina football game!
Our hotel is in an excellent district in Prague 1, and we are near a ton of restaurants and cafes. One thing we've discovered are the two most important things a travelling student needs to find when in a new city: the closest ATM and the nearest Tesco. Tesco is similar to the European WalMart, and they also have Tesco Expresses, which are like grocery stores. It's very important to find one so we can buy large bottles of still water, which are life-savers considering we all feel so dehydrated from a higher altitude and all the walking we are doing.
Our hotel is near all of the embassies, and the Japanese embassy is a block away. We walked and trammed all day today, and saw loads of cool places, statues, and bridges thanks to our wonderful tour guide, Dean Bierbauer. He really has Prague down, and I'm fairly sure he speaks a little more Czech than he leads on. The Charles Bridge was really cool, and I truly felt like I was walking through a mideval Europe. The Castle district was also neat, and extremely touristy. They had a ton of shops with little knick knacks and some nicer crystals. Today has really been the best first day I've ever spent in any city around the world.
Well, I don't want to keep y'all longer, and we have to go find a laundromat so we can have some clean socks for Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty tomorrow morning! I'll leave you with a video from a ragtime band playing on the Charles Bridge. As they say cheers in Czech, Probst!
Carolina love and Go Cocks,
Zach