Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Germany

Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, and Germany: 20 Days in Eastern Europe

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Paddle Boat!

Prague is one of the most gorgeous places I have ever seen. Today after our meeting with a journalist from the Associated Press, Morgan and I successfully found the perfect spot for souvenir shopping and cheap discounts on Bohemian crystal. We rented a paddle boat on the river for the equivalent of about 10 U.S. dollars. It was definitely one of the highlights of the trip. We were even surprised to see Dean Bierbauer and Susanne waving to us while grabbing lunch on the side of the river. The city is absolutely gorgeous and looks even better from the river. We could have stayed on the river forever with the baby ducklings and nothing but blue skies, beautiful bridges and buildings surrounding us. If anyone is ever in Prague again, I HIGHLY suggest taking a paddle boat trip.

-Sandy! =)

Selective Memories

My initial thoughts before leaving the U.S. lead me to believe that over time, the view of communism in Europe has become less accurate and become more positive. We have talked to many people in both Hungary and the Czech Republic about the challenges democracy has brought to these countries. These societies no longer have a sense of stability when it comes to keeping a job or putting food on the table. The longing for a stable job allows people to wonder and consider communism in a positive light. But what about the terrorism that occured? What about the other negative things that came with the system? After being here, explanations have jumped out at me. It is not that people think of communism in a positive way now, but part of their history is slowly being forgotten. These societies have somewhat of a selective memory. At the 1956 Hungarian Revolution Research Center in Budapest, we asked what students learn about the '56 revolution in school. Their response was that the students don't really learn about the revolution in school and they aren't interested in the subject. In Prague, we visited Wenceslas Square and were surprised to see a memorial for Michael Jackson. Instead of memorializing Jan Palach and appreciating the Czech history, the square was smothered by western culture. It seems as though the people are trying to forget about some important pieces of their past. The more time that goes by, the more people are forgetting the truth about communist rule. It is clear that the younger generations are simply uneducated on the subject of communism and the schools don't teach them the immensly important parts of their history.

-Sandy

Expectations, realities and adjustments

As we prepare to depart the Czech Republic, second of four countries on our central European itinerary, our students are making mid-course corrections in their research projects. That's as it should be. We asked each to assess some aspect of the cold war, the collapse of communism and the role of the media.

What the students are discerning is that the textbooks, historical treatises and classroom lectures can only take them so far. While those are far from black and white presentations, the shades of gray are even more nuanced when you start to see them first hand. Yes, the cold war tensions between the Soviet and western blocs is often laid out in good guy/bad guy contrasts.

What the students report they are encountering is that people who lived behind the so-called Iron Curtain for the most part made their adjustments and figured out survival techniques. While they have acquired post-communist freedoms, they have also had to figure out survival techniques in free market economies that no longer guarantee them a job and a pension, regardless of how modest. In good times, market economies will exceed those minimums. In hard economic times, such as we are now experiencing, the guarantees are often not there.

You rarely saw homeless on the streets of communist capitals. Occasional beggars were swept away by police. You encounter both now. The view is not sanitized. The problem is not solved.

Is it possible the bad old days could be the good old days? That's where our western lens colors the notion that anyone might want to go back to communism. At least, not the oppressive version we've seen remembered in Budapest's "Terror House" or the memorial to victims of communism down the street from our hotel in Prague.

Since European communism collapsed in 1989--it still exists in Chinese, Vietnamese or Cuban forms--a whole generation of Czechs, Slovaks, Hungarians and more have grown up never having lived in a communist country. They are about the same age as our University of South Carolina students. That generation--European and American--will have to make its own assessment of the post-cold war world.

CB 6/29

Monday, June 28, 2010

Scenes of Prague

It's our last day in Prague, but it feels like there's so much left to discover about the city! After a group meeting with a Czech representative of the Associated Press, the day is ours to explore. Many of us will head back to the Charles Bridge and Wenceslas Square (as seen in the above video!) before joining back up with the rest of the group for dinner. Tomorrow we depart by train for Warsaw!

-Alex

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Praha at its finest!














Ahoj Mates!

As our second day in Prague or Praha - as the natives call it, has neared an end, I must speak on behalf of the entire group when I say that the city has not ceased to amaze us. We began our day at around 10:30 am by taking a tram into "Old Town Square." Dean Bierbauer served as our tour guide for the day. I must admit it was not only a pleasure to have a guide that spoke English but it was also nice to move at our own pace, while stopping just about every two minutes to pose for photos!

It wasn't far into our tour, when we stumbled upon the remains of a Michael Jackson memorial. (In celebration of his death a year ago. June 25, 2010) It was then that it hit us. Not only does Michael Jackson's memory live on all around the world but more importantly, western culture is treasured here in Europe. Which brought about how different things have been thus far in Prague as compared to Budapest. There is a much greater sense of comfort and homeliness here. We are also greeted with much warmer smiles and attitudes.

The latter half of the evening, we took a short break. Went back to our rooms to escape from the heat and freshen up before dinner. The group then parted ways to dine at different restaurants in the city. Myself, and seven others seemed to have the best luck of the night when we discovered a hidden gem along the riverside. We dinned at a restaurant called Safran. We were amazed by the modern architecture and character of the establishment. We started of with glasses of wine, warm freshly baked bread served with an herb butter, veal broth with broccoli and asparagus soup and, Risotto. Later, the conversation slowed while we enjoyed our meals - which were all phenomenal to say the least. Conversation was awakened by a remark that regarded...you'd never guess it, the bathrooms! Both our server and the owner of the restaurant could no longer hold back their laughs as we took field trips to the bathrooms to marvel at the beautiful Zebra and Alligator sinks! At that point our actions screamed "Crazy Americans"
Well, we have got an important day ahead of us. A meeting at RFE/RL headquarters is first up on the agenda. So a good nights sleep is vital. Goodnight all!

With love from Prague
-Kyara

No Blisters Yet - From Budapest to Prague

I have been having the best time over here in Europe but after the day is done my head is always swarming with thoughts about how the world over here was totally different than what one would associate with life in more western, democratic societies. My impressions of Hungary culminate into a perplexing mix of both honor and guilt. To clarify, I am honored that the people we met were so hospitable to our group in helping us to understand thoroughly the gravity of Communism's past in Hungary. On the other hand I experienced emotions bordering on a sort of quiet remorse when I saw the state of their economy and other trials they face in light of still slowly adapting to a free market economy. The contrition comes from my own personal disillusionment with the suitability of a capitalist system. By this I mean that I truly began to reconsider my own opinions about a free market economy and made the decision the methods of a capitalist society are not always appropriate. People we spoke with in Budapest told us that Hungarians expect their government to provide for them. With that I find a great deal of freedom that must be sacrificed, a compromise that does not translate well into a capitalist context. I sensed that many people in Budapest were wanting more back from the government than they felt they were receiving. Perhaps even that the tax structure in conjunction with an unstable economic turn has only fueled the flames of corruption within governance. I cannot still understand why a capitalist system has been more successful in neighboring countries of Hungary, but it seems to cause such struggle there.

Prague seems to be an entirely different place than Budapest. I would have to say I feel more at home here because I feel that it is more westernized, or closer to the cultures of other countries I've visited like the UK and France, therefore resting in my comfort zone. The language barrier here has not been so difficult as there seems to be a general enthusiasm for western commercialism, that brings English along with it. Everything from Ford Automobiles all the way to way to Remax, Czech people seem to have brought in more American business than I saw in Budapest (that had a lot of Hungarian businesses). I still have a lot to learn and explore here, I think that our visit to RFE/RL will be one of the best yet! Much more sausage and Czech beverages on the way!

- Will Flourance

Which way to the nearest Tesco?

Hey everyone,

I hope everyone in the states is enjoying a good Gamecock victory against Clemson in the College World Series and ready to cheer us on against UCLA in the finals.

We made it to Prague yesterday afternoon, and we were met with bright sunshine and a wonderful breeze. The drive around to the hotel showed us really cool parts of the city including the Old City, the Small City near Castle Prague, and the old National Gym Stadium. It can hold 250,000 spectators! Just try to imagine that at a Carolina football game!

Our hotel is in an excellent district in Prague 1, and we are near a ton of restaurants and cafes. One thing we've discovered are the two most important things a travelling student needs to find when in a new city: the closest ATM and the nearest Tesco. Tesco is similar to the European WalMart, and they also have Tesco Expresses, which are like grocery stores. It's very important to find one so we can buy large bottles of still water, which are life-savers considering we all feel so dehydrated from a higher altitude and all the walking we are doing.

Our hotel is near all of the embassies, and the Japanese embassy is a block away. We walked and trammed all day today, and saw loads of cool places, statues, and bridges thanks to our wonderful tour guide, Dean Bierbauer. He really has Prague down, and I'm fairly sure he speaks a little more Czech than he leads on. The Charles Bridge was really cool, and I truly felt like I was walking through a mideval Europe. The Castle district was also neat, and extremely touristy. They had a ton of shops with little knick knacks and some nicer crystals. Today has really been the best first day I've ever spent in any city around the world.

Well, I don't want to keep y'all longer, and we have to go find a laundromat so we can have some clean socks for Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty tomorrow morning! I'll leave you with a video from a ragtime band playing on the Charles Bridge. As they say cheers in Czech, Probst!

Carolina love and Go Cocks,

Zach