Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Germany

Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, and Germany: 20 Days in Eastern Europe

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Nostalgia

We've been home since Saturday evening, but that doesn't mean we've stopped learning about and discussing Communism, as well as our travels throughout Eastern Europe.

I guess you could say that nostalgia has begun to set in.

As we were sitting in class today, discussing our itinerary for Budapest, Prague, and Warsaw, we were all reminded of some unforgettable moments: the rebellious nature of one special Hungarian songwriter, the hotel's automatic door that just wouldn't stay shut, the times where some of us got lost along the way (or as I'd like to put it, we simply took the scenic route), and of course that first group dinner where we feasted upon lots and lots of goulash and could only begin to really get to know each other.

It definitely seems as though we're in no shortage for memories after our three weeks abroad. That fact became even more apparent after I took my camera to Sam's on Sunday and discovered that I had 835 photos to print out that document every moment (and every meal) of our trip! Let me tell you, I just can't wait to sit down and put all of those in my photo album once I've sorted them all out!

Anyways, after looking through the rest of the class' blog updates over the past two days, I've realized there's really not much left to say! But...how could I ever really begin to adequately describe the trip in a couple of words anyways? It was incredible and eye-opening, and it's something we will all remember for the rest of our lives, but the places we saw and the stories we heard are things you can't really understand until you experience them on a personal level. I can't even say that I fully understand them yet! As for all of us, it's a constant learning experience, both in the classroom and beyond, that has let us at least skim the surface in a search for a better understanding of four very unique and unbelievable European countries.

Thus, it's impossible for me to pick a favorite city or a favorite country after experiencing each individually over the past three weeks. I loved Budapest because it seemed the least Westernized, and I felt as though I was able to make the city my own after strolling through parks and finding my own places to sit and observe that were off the beaten path. Another river city, Prague too was beautiful and unique, and it never lacked for good shopping and an assortment of tourist sites. From there, Warsaw and Gdansk gave us a once-in-a-lifetime glimpse into Polish life where we played witness to two cities that were once leveled by bombs and have since recovered and become even more amazing with age. Finally, we visited Berlin, and we couldn't have had better timing, for we got to watch Germany play in the semi-finals for FIFA 2010 from the comfort of an Irish pub near our own Ramada Berlin-Mitte hotel.

Whether riding bikes through the city, taking paddleboats onto the river, swimming in the Baltic, or simply going off on our own to experience everyday life in these five European cities, the trip offered a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for all of us. We don't know when we'll be back, or even if we'll be back, but I know that we made every minute count while we were overseas, and that looking back- there are definitely, definitely no regrets.

Thanks to all our readers for keeping your interest-

Alex Cherry

In hindsight...

With a little more than 72 hours back on U.S. soil and exhaustion still, very much a factor in adapting to everyday life, my body and mind are struggling to recover. Now, with a less demanding schedule than we had for the past three weeks, I am trying to reclaim and make sense of everything I experienced during our travels.
Which, for me, is proving to be more of a challenge than I initially fathomed it would be. Prior to our departure to Central Eastern Europe, we devoted three weeks in the classroom to prepare us for our studies abroad. In hindsight, not only was three weeks in the classroom too short, it is near impossible to prepare someone for the experiences we encountered.
Our objective was to analyze the structure of communism and the role of the media in its ultimate fall. In many ways, our experiences abroad contradicted our prior studies. In the classroom the scope was very narrow and in some respects one sided. As we studied communism, an oppressive, meek, black and white picture was painted
Unaware at the time, I left the United States overwhelmed, naive and jaded. Not far into our travels, did I discover, the little knowledge I had of communism was solely based off of an American perspective. As our travels commenced, the picture that was presented was no longer black and white. Various shades of grey presented themselves leaving myself and other students even more puzzled.
Most importantly, communism is a word very seldom used in Central Eastern Europe. Communism was never achieved nor experienced in these societies. It was the ultimate goal for the ruling Soviet Regime – a societal utopia that they were hoping to reach. But, were never able to, socialism was the only practice that was accomplished in Eastern Europe. I mention this because; in our first meeting with a Professor in Budapest we were corrected. Eastern Europeans do not refer to what they’ve experienced as communism, it was socialism. And, I as re-visit my experiences over the past three weeks that first meeting still stands out to me. It set the tone for the rest of the trip and we would be corrected many times following that initial meeting.
Whether or not, socialism was good or bad is most definitely subjective. At the mention of socialism, nostalgia still sets in for some. I was taken back by the number of individuals we encountered that, longed for the “good ‘ole days.” For quite a few people socialism marked a time in their lives when they had security. Never, did they wake up and have to wonder if they would still have a job. Now, with a fairly new democratic society these same people find themselves struggling to adjust. Homelessness is new to them, as well as the competition that comes with a democracy. On the other hand, there are a number of people who do believe a democratic society is better and will lead to a more prosperous future – it is just a matter of time and adjusting.
Adversely, there were still remnants of how harsh life was during the rule of the Soviet party in many of these countries. Visits to places like the Terror House in Hungary, ship yards in Poland and the Jewish memorial and the Berlin wall in Germany brought about a bleak feeling. It was a constant reminder of how far these countries have come in the past 20 years. This brings about another point.
Aside from the knowledge I gained, on what socialism was truly like for those that lived through it were the spirits of the people. I was awestruck by the strength of the people in the four countries that we visited. Their spirits were strong, as well as their devotion to their culture and their zest for life was contagious. I was enveloped completely by the people’s warmth. For me, my personal encounters with strangers in Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland and Germany were the most enlightening.
All in all, my experiences in Europe have far exceeded what anyone can gain sitting in a classroom. I am most grateful for the people I met while abroad. I am now faced with the task of trying to further make sense of all I’ve gained during the past six weeks. This trip marks only the beginning for me, it has also reiterated why I am pursuing a career as a journalist – to develop a deeper personal understanding of how cultures, industries, economies, companies; government agencies and key decision-making individuals function. In traveling to these various countries I believe it pits your will and wits against those who possess information and who would wish to suppress it. And, I have learned how to overcome that. Lastly this trip has influenced my life by permitting me to experience the level of access to interesting people and events, as outlined above.

Danke schön to all that have accompanied us during our travels! And thank you to all of the Professors and students for such a phenomenal experience!!

...Until we meet again Europe

Kyara Massenburg

Monday, July 12, 2010

Just a few thoughts...



My mind and body are struggling to recuperate from the past three weeks. Attempting to reflect and accurately present my thoughts, which have yet to take form, is proving to be quite challenging. However, I will try:



Our mission was to examine the complexity of communism during the Soviet regime and to study the media’s role in its ultimate collapse. Our findings proved that our scope was quite narrow.


Upon our arrival, we were welcomed with a grim glimpse of what may have been before the year 1989. Various shades of grey cascaded the scenery. It was cold and damp. As we progressed toward the center city of Budapest, large unadorned and austere buildings came into view. They were tall and rectangular with uniformed square windows. I wondered if they were the communal quarters where people were assigned to live.


As we traversed through the bleak landscape, I thought to myself, how appropriate of an introduction into our journey it was. I felt it illustrated the depraved state in which encompassed the lives of millions. I, myself, knew nothing of this profound period in history.


I was born during its final years. My life, as I know it, was untouched from the harsh, adulterating era of the communist regime. Separated by time and distance, I was unscathed. The rest of the students were born between 1989 and 1991. I thought this trip, especially for the undergraduates, was symbolic. The same years that marked the beginning of their lives also signified, essentially, a rebirth for those who were held captive behind the Iron Curtain.


The trip was too short, yet at the same time, too long. It was an intensive and enlightening experience. We were given the opportunity to speak with individuals whose perspectives far surpassed what ours could ever be. Between meetings with a dissident Hungarian musician, political scientists, a former Communist Party member, journalists reporting from the East, and educational tours to radio stations and museums, we had multiple platforms to receive information. In addition, the collaboration of the faculty and the accompanying guests provided us with a plethora of resources to build on our inchoate understanding.


The first three weeks were a crash course into the principles and ideologies behind communism. Having this background knowledge as the foundation for our learning, everything that followed advanced our understanding. Being in the setting where fifty years of oppression occurred helped what I’ve heard and read through texts and lectures materialize into the reality of what was. The chilling and ominous audio and visual displays in the Terror House evoked a sickening feeling, which ran through me. The ’56 Institute and its images enabled me to recognize the calculating nature of the 1956 Hungarian Revolution. The stories that were shared by individuals whom we were scheduled to meet as well as from those whom we just met in passing expanded my knowledge.


I realized that we must be careful to not become desensitized of the realities of the past. There is a great significance in seeing the places where people were tortured and killed. We must be careful to not forget the casualties and not lose sight of how people, whether they are disillusioned or psychotic, are capable of doing the most horrific of things.


The past three weeks broadened my perspective immensely. I realized that each Soviet bloc country had its own unique story. Depending upon the culture of each country as well as the leadership in the Kremlin and the party head in each country, there were various degrees of oppression throughout each country. For instance, Czechoslovakia liked the socialist system. They just wanted to reform it into “communism with a human face.” The Prague Spring of 1968 was a peaceful demonstration. Likewise, the Solidarity movement in Gdansk was a peaceful resistance with improved workers’ rights as its platform.


The pervasive nature of the corrupt system penetrated all aspects of people’s lives. However, some societies were more tolerant and optimistic of the system than others. For many, it gave them a sense of security. Yet, some wanted to preserve their culture.


The impact of the radio and other media outlets was not as instrumental as we initially hypothesized. Prior to our departure, we had the notion that Radio Free Europe was a beacon for disseminating the truth to the Eastern bloc. However, the conversations that we had with many individuals illuminated the fact that RFE was not considered very credible.


Throughout our journey, we realized that other factors, both internal and external, were profoundly influential in the demise of the system. The leadership, or lack thereof, presented a stronger case for the collapse. A disregard for economics was a key factor. In addition, the system was weak. Its use of force was its only prevailing strength to keep the masses under control. Dissident behavior, whether in the form of an uprising or in a peaceful demonstration, was met with suppression. Relinquishing the reins in the slightest manner could result in a domino effect, which the Party could not risk.


The amount of information, which I gathered over the past six weeks, is overwhelming. The challenge that I face, now, is to decompress and organize my thoughts and notes into a comprehensive paper. But, beyond my thesis paper, what I am appreciative of is the experience. The knowledge and perspective that I now hold will remain with me. I look forward to enlightening others who are unaware. This course and trip exemplifies why I want to be a journalist: to surpass my own literal and figurative borders by immersing in the cultures and lives of others with the purpose to expand my knowledge as well as others’.


- Ashley E. Hotham

Auf Wiedersehen

I cannot believe we are already back in the U.S.! It is crazy how fast three weeks can go by when you’re traveling across Europe!

This trip has been one of the most eye-opening experiences of my life and I’m so glad I could experience it with such great people. I think all of us have learned more than we ever thought we would on this trip and we’re definitely all experts on communism/socialism now.

Our last stop was in Berlin, Germany. It was definitely one of the places everyone was looking forward to visiting from the beginning. From the bike tour across Berlin on my bike Tinkerbell, to decking out in German colors for the World Cup, to getting lost somewhere at a U2 train stop, Berlin ceased to impress me with its beauty and the German people only seemed to become more alive with each passing day. It was almost impossible to believe that such a wonderful place could have such terrible history. It is so amazing that a nation can come back from such repression and become such a sparkling place to visit. It takes a lot of courage to come back from such a chilling past. One of the reasons I think Berlin has done so well is because it is the only place we went to that still seems in tune with its past. Berlin has kept so much to remind the people of what is most important. Although Germans are sometimes embarrassed of their past, they still keep pieces of the Berlin wall up for historical purposes and to remind them how much they do not want to regress back to that low point. In the Reichstag, the government officials keep Russian writings on the wall to remind them how devastating war can be on a nation. Germany was the first nation we have been to where everyone admitted that children learn about the socialist rule in schools. I think it is really important that the younger generation learns about the nation’s history with no loopholes. I think the journalist at our last meeting in Berlin and on the trip says it all and explains why the Germans have done so well. He said that the past isn’t what is important right now, what is important is to look the future and look toward the horizon. His optimism was so powerful and his quote was a great way to end our journey in Europe. It is amazing how the German people—even those who lived through the socialist rule can forgive and forget, and have so much optimism toward the future.

For those who followed us on the blog throughout our journey, thanks for reading!

Auf Wiedersehen,

Sandy!

(P.S.- I want to go back already!!)

A New Perspective

We made it home, back to Carolina, after an exciting and somewhat exhausting three weeks of European travel. Personally, the 5 cities on our agenda were all places I never visited. Because of this, I didn't have much of an expectation besides what I heard from friends and family which went a little like this . . . "ohhh, you're going to the dark side of the world . . ." Throughout my education I've been taught the American perspective of communism and Eastern Europe which depicts a dark, gloomy, oppressive society that was miserable on every level. In traveling to Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland and Germany and in speaking with intellectuals who grew up and experienced firsthand the power of the communist regime, I was given a different perspective . . . a perspective of my own.

First off, communism was never experienced in central/eastern Europe. Communism was the idea or the ultimate goal for those in power but socialism was the actual practice in society. We were corrected many times during our meetings and discussions that communism never existed. . . it's socialism that we're speaking of. We also learned that socialism wasn't necessarily all bad. Many people described how secure they felt under the socialist power. They had a job at all times and goods were much cheaper. Throughout our travels, it became apparent that a person's satisfaction with socialism as the form of government depended on where it was they were living and how oppressive that particular government was.

Some of the people that we would meet with would say that the new democratic society in place today isn't necessarily better than the old socialist government. The "good ole' days" became a recurring word in our vocabulary. In my opinion, it is going to take a little longer for people to adjust to the new democratic forms of society that have been set up in these countries. Many people aren't comfortable with the new competition that comes with a democracy. All of a sudden, you must work hard for your job and pay more for food and other goods. However, it doesn't take 10 to 15 years to get a car and you are able to travel freely. Like most things in life, you must consider the idea of give and take.

I learned so much during the past three weeks but I think the most important idea I was able to take from this experience came in the very last meeting when we were in Berlin. I asked our 3 guests the following question: Is the new democratic society seen today better than the socialist society you experienced over 20 years ago? Do you miss the "good ole' days?"

One of the men responded with something that struck us all. He said that he can't change the past. He must only look to the future and hope that he can make an impact. I think that is a great lesson for us all to learn. We shouldn't dwell on the past. Although we can learn from history in order to make our own future brighter, we must not let what happened before us weigh us down. We must only look toward the future and work towards making an impact through simply living life.

I experienced an incredible adventure over the past 3 weeks. I made new friends, gained new knowledge and created memories that will last a lifetime.

Thank you to all who accompanied me and gave me sunscreen . . . haha. I can honestly say that I love you all and I couldn't have asked for better travel buddies.

Auf Wiedersehen, Na Shledanou, Dowidzenia, Sziasztok, Ciao . . .

With love,
Caitlin

Back to Columbia

Goodbye Europe!
The past three weeks almost seem like a dream now that we are back in the United States. I learned more on this trip than any class I have ever taken in my lifetime. However, I think that we only scratched the surface on the events that took place in these countries during the reign of Communism. All of these countries were effected drastically by the Soviets coming in and the Communists taking control, but each in their own way.
The country I found the most interesting was Germany. It is amazing to me how much this country has been through and has still recuperated fairly well. The more I learned about the German people from going to the Reichstag and talking to former East German journalists at the ZZB institute, the deeper the respect I gained for them grew. At the Reichstag, our guide told us that there are no paintings or any kind of representation of former German leaders inside the building because the government does not want to display any kind of nationalism. He said they do this because nationalism has been a problem in the past with Germany. I understand their reasoning behind this, but I wonder how different the US would be if it were more like this. Would be a weak country? Isn't our nationalism one of the biggest pieces holding Americans together? We may not have extreme nationalism like the Germans had at one point, but it is present. With this in mind, I formed a respect for Germans because it must be hard for them to try and forget their past and move to a stronger future for their country.
Then when we went to the ZZB institute to talk to the former East German Journalists, we got a much bigger incite to what life was life to Germans who had been through big parts of the past that Germany is trying to recover from. The eldest journalist is the one that I was really interested in. His parents were Communists during the Nazi reign and his mother was sent to a concentration camp for it. Then when the Communists took over East Germany, he moved there with his father. He was a journalist during this time and talked about what happened to him when he wrote something the government did not like. It was very interesting to me to meet this man because he had been through most of Germany's grim history.
Talking to the journalist really let you know how suppressed East Germany was. One of them was a foreign correspondent in Russia during Gorbachev's time as General Secretary of the Communist Party in the Soviet Union. However, he was not allowed to report on Gorbachev's glasnost or perestroika. The journalists were only allowed to report on what the government wanted them to report on and there were extreme punishments for people who did not do as they were told.
This trip taught us all how little we know about Communism here in America. Some of the things we uncovered were chilling. The degree at which spies worked for the government is way worse than we knew. However, the people did have some freedoms while living under Communism and they were far better than we expected, though they still were not that good.

Morgan Weaver

Looking Back

Berlin was one of the most inspiring places I've ever come to visit in my life and truly a gem of European history. There are so many important people and events that revolve around that city, a characteristic that makes attentive visitors feel as though they are sitting directly on the pulse of Europe. It truly struck me as a city that lives in great optimism yet constant reflection. To specify, a friend of mine that I met during my stay said it is a great achievement for Germans to still look forward towards a bright future even in the light of the trials of its past. This denotes that German people have pulled through even the worst conditions of state and triumphed forward against suppression and disunity.

The evaluation of my experiences in the past three weeks will be a process that continues for quite some time. This is understandable because every time I tried to truly absorb observations about my surroundings I would only encounter a greater flow of new information. There is a distinct list of things that are emerging within my thoughts though. First off I have realized that capitalism itself is not inherently the best form of economic policy. Depending on how much a population expects its government to provide, any degree of socialization may be taken to meet those demands. Straight capitalism is simply a formula that has worked very successfully for the United States and other wealthy nations, but it is not a generally suitable and acceptable method. What does remain important is the maintaining of a democratic form of rule. This goes all the way back to John Locke's writings about a government's only true purpose being to serve the people of its society. If it does not meet those needs then it should be in full capability of the citizenry to change how their interests are represented. Over the course of the trip we visited places where this was not legal under the rule of communism, yet attempts to do so were still made. Everything from the Hungarian Revolution in '56 to the Prague Spring to the Solidarity movement and the Fall of the Berlin wall reflected resentment toward socialist leadership.

Finally, in a journalistic light, I see that media did not play as grand of a role in the end of communism as perhaps America had hoped, but there is certainly a value to supplying people with free information they would not be able to get from their own society. Having the ability to make your own decision between what information is relevant to your interests is instrumental in preserving democratic stability. If people are incapable of receiving information from alternate voices and perspectives than their own (or the one they are accustomed to) their understanding of societal needs becomes stagnant and therefore unuseful in the betterment of society. The more limited information exposure is, the more limited one's reasoning becomes.

Altogether, this has been one of the best decisions I have made in college and am extremely lucky to have shared it with such bright and engaging people. The things I gained could not have been achieved in the classroom, even with the best textbooks and professors imaginable. A significant part of the learning came from teaching myself what was significant about communism from interacting with those who lived under its reign. Being in the environment taught me things about the communist experience that cannot be easily put into words and printed. There is a significant depth and understanding that can only be achieved by submerging one's thoughts into a context only attainable through travel and experience.

- William Flourance

The memories will come, but Jetlag likes to hang around too


Hey Gamecock Nation,

What a crazy three weeks it has been. From the start of our travels here to Budapest, sunny Prague, a modern Warsaw, a quaint beachside Gdansk (or Danzig if you're of German background), or Berlin, to hearing about the run-off results to that sweet College World Series Championship back in Carolina, it has been quite the adventure for the 14 of us.

Now, as weary travelers waiting for our normal lives to catch up with us back in Columbia, I just want to take a moment to look back on some of our exciting and not so exciting moments.

As we landed in Budapest none of us quite knew what to expect. We had all seen movies with a dark and dreary 1970s Eastern Europe, but as we landed it didn't appear so. There was hustle and bustle all over the city, and things looked fairly prosperous. As we began traveling between countries, we saw the steady increase in prosperity all the way t
o the Brandenburg Gate. Socialism as they knew it was history, and all of the countries were looking forward to brighter futures.

Some times were better than others. Everyone please make note of this: unless you are traveling on the Orient Express, always fly over training in Europe. It must be because we got blessed with "the best 2 weeks of weather for all of European summer" that we were cursed with trains with no windows and broken air conditioning. It's ok, don't worry. No student were harmed in the making of this class on trains; however, there were times that we all thought there was no end in sight on an 8 hour ride and were ready to get off at any stop along the way.

Now that I'm sitting comfortably in my air conditioned apartment, I'll move back to the finer things of Europe. Most of the meetings we had throughout our thre
e and half weeks were exceptional and really supplemented what we all learned in the classroom. The backgrounds of some of the people were complex, intruiging, and all around just what we needed. From former Communists, to journalists working in communist Germany, to students who only know their parents' stories, we've started to gather a sense of what life was really like during Socialist control and how life has changed for the overall betterment of this part of the world.

I also enjoyed meeting people outside of our meetings. If you go to the right place at the right time, its amazing who you will actually meet. For example, after getting a dinner recommendation from Dean Bierbauer in Warsaw, I met with the leader of the majority party in Polish government there dining with his family. He sat and talked with me and Ashley for quite some time about journalism and government and the complex relationship it can have. Then in Berlin, after a very disappointing loss to Spain in the World Cup semifinals, I ended up hanging out with interns from another major political party in Germany. We talked about everything from culture to how the party has reshaped its goals once Communism fell and Germany was reunited.

I guess I'll close now, and although there is more I would love to tell you, it is buried deep within my brain, processing right now, trying to find its way around my jet lag. Because like any three week, intensive hands-on class moving about Europe every 5 days, time catches up with you on that plane ride back. So until August and Carolina Football,

Eljen! Hura! Nasrovia! Probst! and Cheers!

Auf Weidersehen and Carolina love,

Zach

Goodbye Berlin


After a long and incredible trip across Europe we wrap up our final days in Berlin. We scheduled some fascinating meetings with people directly affected by the Berlin Wall and the GDR. These meetings enlightened both the students and faculty to the oppressive nature under the socialist rule. The division of families and lack of free speech are only a few of the many examples given to the group. The trip has brought us on an adventure to important historical sites all over the city including the Brandenburg Gate, Hitlers Bunker and The Jewish Holocaust Memorial. It has been a trip like no other that has inspired me to continue researching the past so that my generation can provide a brighter future.

Sincerely,
Dave

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Berlin Video!

Hello again- I hope you've enjoyed reading our blog updates over the last three weeks! It's now our final day in Berlin, and our last few hours of a journey that's been incredible. Tomorrow morning at 5:45 AM (or 15 minutes until midnight back home) we'll be loading the bus with our much-heavier luggage and all the memories we can possibly hold.

Before we leave, however, I wanted to be sure to post a video that highlights some of our numerous experiences in Germany. Be sure to turn your volume up, and I hope you'll enjoy the sights as much as we did.


Always,
Alex

The Prism of Time

BERLIN--Each day of this trip presents us with a new picture. Today, remnants of the infamous Berlin Wall, photos of those who died trying to cross it, personal accounts of those intent on not letting the wall fade from memory.

But for many young Berliners with whom we have met, the wall is a memory from before their time. It is more than 20 years since the night in 1989 when the wall was breached and, as communism crumbled, the dismantling began. In Berlin, there are those who would remove every trace of what the wall meant during the 28 years it stood. There are others who would build it back.

What was East Berlin is a different place from what I first saw about 1970 and even from what I last saw just five years ago. The challenge our post-cold war students have is to grasp why this is a significant piece of history and what it must have been like to live on either side of the Berlin Wall. Perhaps today, standing in the middle of one of the few preserved sections of what had been the "death strip," that became a bit more real.

When I used to cross Checkpoint Charlie between the American and Soviet sectors of Berlin, it was serious business. The Vopos--East Germany's volkspolizei guards--were purposefully intimidating, even though I had the security of an American passport. Checkpoint Charlie today is an anachronistic commercial circus. An ersatz Vopo will stamp your passport, your arm or forehead--for two Euros. A sloppy impersonator of a U.S. soldier will pose for a photo with you by the old guard shack--two Euros, please. That's hardly the mental snapshot I have of Checkpoint Charlie.

As we have travelled through Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland and Germany, we have gathered a collection of snapshots. Our students have shared some of their digital files. Mine tend to be on a mental file. It's good to have both kinds.

Five years from now, if our students come back--and I hope they will--these places will have changed again. But if you hold the prism just right, it reflects back on time and captures the changes.

CB -- July 8

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

FIFA 2010

Spain 1, Germany 0


It is a sad night in Berlin, but we had tons of fun watching the game tonight in a pub down the street from the hotel. Be sure to watch the game on Saturday to see if Germany can clinch the 3rd place title!


-Alex

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Some fun on the beach in Gdansk on the 4th of July

I mean, all Americans need to celebrate our country's birthday somehow, right?

Zach

Guten tag from Berlin!

So our first day in Berlin turned out to be amazing. After a fantastic bike ride tour through the city from Fat Tire Bike Tours centered at Alexanderplatz, we visited a Berlin radio broadcasting station as well as the Reichstag building for a guided tour of parliament (and easy access up to the glass dome that overlooks the entire city)! From start to finish, the whole day was filled with interesting sights and stories to see and learn about Berlin.

First of all, we stopped at Bebelplatz, the sight of the Nazi book burning in the 1930s. Books written by Einstein were among the thousands burned in the center of this square, and an underground memorial of empty bookshelves now commemorates the tragic event. This week, however, the platz has turned into the center of fashion as the Berlin Fashion Week 2010 has set up a huge white tent covering the entire square furnished for famous designers and models. Luckily, the memorial was still accessible by the public (and it was awesome to get to see all the VIPs everywhere setting up for the event!)

From there our group headed toward Checkpoint Charlie, the Holocaust Memorial, and the Brandenburg Gate. Unbelievable sights, each had its own history and intensity. Checkpoint Charlie, one of three main checkpoints between the West and East during the Cold War, has turned into a giant tourist trap- fun but expensive! There, you can get a stamp on your passport for two Euro, or approximately $2.20. Also, you can take photographs with American guards at the checkpoint who are no longer stoic and resilient, but fun-loving and loud tourist-attractors calling out at the audience to join them in front of the small triangular-roofed white building for professional photographs.

The Holocaust Memorial, however, proved a stark contrast to the touristy-Checkpoint Charlie. A huge block of land near the American Embassy, the memorial is a cobblestone surface with thousands of huge grey concrete slabs painted in anti-graffiti paint that tower over you dauntingly. The memorial, with no explicit definition, is left up to individual interpretation, whether that leads to ideas of a graveyard for the Jewish masses, an empty city where you're constantly looking over your shoulder to see who's close by, or a physical manifestation of the jailed-in feeling created as thousands of Jews were forced like cattle into concentration camps, many of them to their death, the site is incredible as it reminds you of Nazi-ruled Germany and the genocide that Hitler's Third Reich created.

And lastly (on a slightly brighter note), the Brandenburg Gate is an awe-inspiring sight, a once-division between East and West Berlin that used to lie in the middle of the death zone inbetween the dividing walls. Today, we rode bikes under the gate, a feat that would have been impossible 20 years ago. Atop the gate sits a satue of a chariot with four horses led by a woman (now called Victoria after the victorious defeat of Napoleon) that humoursly looks patronizingly down upon the very military-looking, dare I say ugly, building that houses the French embassy. Whoever said the Germans don't have a sense of humor was sadly mistaken.

In general, it's truly hard to imagine Berlin pre-1989. But, after seeing the sights and memorials all around the city, I can tell you it's quite an emotional place filled with hope for the future. As we continue learning about the final events in the Cold War and those that led to the ultimate demise of Communism, we'll be sure to keep you posted here on our blog!

Alex

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Fourth of July Celebration!

Happy 4th from all of us!
Left to right: Zach, Sandy, Ashley, Caitlin, Will, Alex, Morgan, Kyara, and Dave!

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Arrival in Gdansk


Here we are in Gdansk, and it's July 4th weekend! This is the second-to-last destination of our trip before returning home to the States, and you can bet that we're going to make the most of our time in the remaining week!


After a lovely train ride through northern Poland this morning, we arrived mid-afternoon to this city-on-the-Baltic. After getting settled in the Lival Hotel, we had a 4 o'clock meeting scheduled with some Polish natives (and a German journalist to boot) interested in practicing their English and telling us all there is to know about their home- complete with fascinating hand-drawn slides! Then, they took us on a tour of the Old Town of Gdansk and led us to a delicious dinner that they assured us was safe of tourist traffic (and the tourist prices)!


As for tomorrow, we'd like to wish you all a wonderful July 4th! Our plans include swimming in the Baltic, touring the shipyards out of which came Solidarity, and enjoying our last night in Gdansk!

-Alex

Friday, July 2, 2010

Gdansk here we come

Good evening from Poland . . .

It's about 11:35 here in Warsaw and I'm repacking my suitcase in preparation for our departure to Gdansk tomorrow morning. Its hard to believe that we only have two cities left on our schedule to visit before returning to the United States. However, in preparing for this trip I initially found myself most excited for our visit to Gdansk so I can't wait to arrive tomorrow!

The Solidarity movement was first created in the shipyards of this port city on the coast of the Baltic Sea. We have been learning about the movement, both prior to arriving in Europe and while here in Warsaw, and one of the most prominent ideas we have found revolves around the lack of violence in the revolution. It was unique in comparison to the Hungarian Revolution of 1956 and the Prague Spring of 1968 because there was this absence of bloodshed and Red Army tanks.

We were asked, during our meeting at the Insititute of National Rememberance, why we were so interested in learning about Solidarity and communism in Eastern/Central Europe. Personally, it caught me off guard . . . I've been thinking about the question for a few days now and I've come up with an answer that proves why I am so interested in Solidarity and the city of Gdansk.

In America I was born with priviledges, freedoms and opportunities. Personally, it is hard to picture myself in a society of suppression under a communist regime. I want to learn about Solidarity and communism because it helps me to truly appreciate the life that I was blessed with. It is enlightening to learn about the lengths that so many were willing to go to in order to fight for those freedoms their society lacked. I have also always been a believer that learning about the history of societies before us gives us the knowledge to make ours better in the future.

Well it's getting late and we have an early morning ahead of us. Until next time . . .

Caitlin

Chopin's Warsaw

It's our last night in Warsaw before we continue on to Gdansk and then finally to Berlin! Before we leave Poland's capital city, however, I wanted to make sure you got an idea of the sights we've seen, the things we've learned, and the people we've met. Below you'll find a recap video from Warsaw- make sure your sound is turned on and enjoy!


-Alex

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Midway Point

Hello Gamecock Nation
Today we are experiencing Polish culture in the great city of Warsaw. We were a little concerned with a difficult trip into the city, but I have been pleasantly surprised with my overall experience. We have been to some incredible cities in Europe and seen some eye opening monuments, but today I would like to reflect on some things Zach and I love about Europe and miss from back home.

The first thing we all seem to love about Europe is the Architecture. Budapest amazed me the most with the Hungarian Parliament. What a sight to see from the river at night! Fashion and the sleek dress from all ages in Poland. They impress all of us with their cutting edge styles. Cafe's have an incredible atmosphere that are great for enjoying time with friends or a coffee and a great book. The Public Transportation systems are to die for. You can get anywhere in any major city for real cheap and very quickly. The traffic signs are unique and the street lights fit the architecture. While in the hotel room we love being able to turn on the radio through the tv and experiencing the different types of music. Then waking up in the morning and having a great buffet everyday. Eggs, bacon, you name it they have it.

After briefly discussing the things I love about Europe I think it is important to tell you about the things we take for granted in the United States. First and for most, air conditioning! I will never take the cold classrooms of USC for granted again. The train ride to Warsaw was "supposed" to be air conditioned but it felt more like a sauna. The next thing I have completely taken for granted is the laundry service and ability to clean my clothes for real cheap. Here in Warsaw it is 10 dollars a shirt to wash your clothes! When Zach and I went to the grocery store we bought one bottle of lemonade and the plastic bag they gave us ripped two minutes out of the store. It looked like saran wrap. When you go for a meal here there are ZERO refills! It has been difficult getting used to paying for every sprite I order. Then we get to the train situation. Very few people in Europe have caught on to wearing deodorant! Yuck, Gamecock nation consider yourself lucky. Then try finding a clock in hotel rooms in Europe; there are none! Last but not least I miss easy English conversation. The language barrier has created a few problems but kept us on our toes!

Have a great one Gamecock Nation! Celebrate our baseball title!
Dave

Scenes of Warszawa

If you take a look out our window on the 11th floor of the Novotel, this is what you'll see.

Warsaw is all the hustle and bustle of a typical metropolitan atmosphere, filled with people, cars, and even an occasional roundabout, but with the added component of the imposing, yet beautiful, Palace of Culture that was a gift to Poland from none other than Stalin himself.

Opposite this view, looking out to the left instead of to the right, you'll see a giant blow-up Puss in Boots, you know- the character from Shrek 3? It's truly a city of old and new, where previous Communist rule is evident in the architecture of the rebuilt city, yet Capitalist culture thrives.

A 20-minute walk from our hotel, however, and you get a very different idea of the city of Warsaw.

Old Town is where the excitement is. Full of color, musicians, and folk dancers (even at midnight on a Wednesday), this is the area of town that I can't wait to go back to. Restaurants line the streets on the walk into Old Town, all of which are beautifully lit and provide outdoor seating for the warm Summer evenings, and once the sun finally sets, just over to the right of this square you can see the moon rise above your view of the Swietokrzyski Bridge.
More images will be coming to you soon, so keep a look out!
-Alex

Penniless in Poland

Good morning everyone! It's our first full day in Warsaw, and we're about to head off to an 11 o'clock meeting to learn all about Solidarity.

Yesterday was quite the adventure, as Zach explained the details of the atrocious train ride from Prague to Warsaw, but to top it all off, I have no Polish zloty (the currency) with which to do anything! I stopped by an atm on the way to dinner and realized I had no idea what the pin number was for my card! However, I shouldn't need cash for more than food today, and if worst comes to worst, I can always eat downstairs in the very modern Novotel dining room and charge the room. Penniless in Poland- what a great first day in! :)

And despite yesterday's awful 8-hour train ride, last night was spectacular. Several of us walked about 20 minutes down to Old Town and were pleasantly surprised by the full-of-Polish-culture atmosphere. We dined outside amid the fading colors of sunset and had plenty of entertainment to go around- whether it was the fire twirlers, traditional folk dancers, or the man who played Seal's "Kiss by a Rose" on repeat. Perhaps the most exciting find- Chopin's Musical Benches. In order to commemorate the 200th anniversary of Chopin's birth, Poland has named 2010 "The Year of Chopin" and has commissioned benches all over Warsaw that tell a little history and even play some of Chopin's music upon pressing "Play." They can be found at historical sites across the city, such as those landmarks we found last night- the Chopin family house and the church that today is home to his heart (quite literally).

Once again, congratulations to the Gamecocks on the national title!

You'll be hearing again from us very shortly. :)

Alex

Prague to Warsaw

Prague is one of the major former Communist cities that has quickly taken off and is catching up with Western Europe. It has become a popular tourist attraction with many things to offer travelers. The architecture is spectacular and the scenery is breath taking. It is definitly a city worth seeing.
Sandy and I rented out a paddle boat to get a better look at the city from the river and it was one thing that will stick out in my mind forever about this trip. The city looks so peaceful from the water and the people on the water look so happy. From this prospective, you would never guess that Prague was ran by Communists only decades ago.
One thing that really sticks out to me about Prague too was an almost disturbing memorial for Prague Spring that I saw. The sculptures in the piece look like zombies coming down a staircase on the side of a hill. Some of them don't have heads, are missing limbs, or have mornful faces that cry out to you on the street. At night the staircase is lit up and the sculptures are made in such a unique fashion that at first glance they look so realistic that it is scary. This is one of a few odd sculptures I saw.
Prague captivated us all in some kind of way. It made it very hard to leave. We all wish we would have had more time there because there is so much to do and see, it is impossible to have done it all in just a few short days. After having been to Radio Free Europe/ Radio Liberty and seeing all the things Prague has to offer too, all of us considered mastering Czech and working at RFE/RL just so we could stay in this wonderful place.
However, all good things do come to an end and we borded the train for Warsaw. The train was not a fun experience. Imagine a very hot summer day, riding for 8 hours with no air conditioning, trying to sleep in a crampt space to escape extreme boredum and the heat, and you have just put yourself in our shoes. Then when we finally got off the train, caught the breeze that cooled us down for a split second, and got to strech our legs a little, we discovered that we were walking for ten minutes to the hotel with out luggage. Please understand that the handle on my luggage decided to jam itself right before this happened so I walked in the heat, dragging my luggage behind me, and hitting the backs of my knees to the point of severe bruises the entire way. Let's just say this wasn't the highlight of anyone's day.
The guide who led us to the hotel was pretty funny though, and very helpful. When he brought us to the first set of stairs that we were going to have to climb with our luggage to get to the hotel he said "Oh, I am sorry about the stairs. The Communists must have built those." He helped all the females with luggage at every set of stairs we reached. If he wouldn't have done that, it very well could have taken us a good bit longer to reach the hotel.
After we showered we ventured into the city like a pack of starving wolves to find the food we had been deprived of for hours. We were all angry and vicious at this point. My group found a KFC and were happy. Although KFC here is not the same as it is at home. No mashed potatoes, mac-n-cheese, baked beans or Bar-B-Q chicken are found here. The only sides are coldslaw and fries. The portions are so small with the food that Sandy and I actually had to get two meals and ice cream to be full. I don't know how any boy would have ever eaten until they were full there. Things are just way different.
However, the fashion is pretty intense and we can not wait to do some damage at the mall!

Morgan Weaver